This might not be everyones opinion but my recommendation would be to get a plunge saw as your first tool. For me it was a big revelation that everything I built in shop class looked so terrible because we werent allowed to use power tools. Cutting a straight line with a hand saw is a skill that needs a lot of practice, same for joinery with chisels etc. But a plunge saw with track will give you very straight cuts for not so much money. And IMO it can do everything a table saw can do, just not as quickly (repeated cuts etc.) But on the other hand I think it makes more sense to get a decent plunge saw that you can keep for years and still use for breaking down sheets even when you decide you prefer a table saw rather than buying a cheaper job site table saw that you outgrow after a couple of years.
I use my plunge saw for so many things, BUT it does have limitations. I struggle making long narrow rip cuts, and repeatable cuts can be difficult without an MFT style workbench.
It can be a lot safer, cleaner, and easier than a table saw, ESPECIALLY for large panels, but it can’t entirely replace a table saw.
I do agree with this comment, and the 10 minute workshop YouTube channel has a lot of great tips on using a plunge saw (and recommendations on less expensive versions), but just be aware that it’s not a 1-1 replacement.
I agree, of course every tool has some limitations. I think a set of parallell guides can also make the plunge saw much more versatile without breaking the bank. And the set i have also works well for narrow rip cuts, exept when the piece is really small to begin with. And as you say an MFT is great for repeated cuts. As another comment mentiones together with a mitre saw and some jigs i think you could replace a table saw functionally, but its probably not the most efficient way of doing some things.
As another comment mentiones together with a mitre saw and some jigs i think you could replace a table saw functionally, but its probably not the most efficient way of doing some things.
With a track saw and a miter saw, I think you can say “I can crosscut, miter and rip.” But I don’t think you come close to matching the capability of a table saw.
I think a track saw really comes into its own when handling large panels or slabs. If you hand me one of those 2 inch thick slabs you’re making one of those trendy river tables out of and tell me to cut the live edge off of it and square it up, I’m not going to even try that with my table saw. Same with cutting some arbitrary diagonal line across a sheet of plywood.
Your average sliding compound miter saw is quite convenient but I don’t think as good as a table saw for crosscuts, miters, bevels or compound miters. Now mind you as a carpenter I’d happily show up to build a house with my miter saw and a normal circ saw and leave the table saw at home, but for woodworking I want extra accuracy and precision that I can get from a table saw and a good miter gauge or sled.
Things I think you would struggle to get done with only a miter saw and a track saw (or: why you’re probably going to get a table saw)
Ripping boards narrower than about 8 inches
Resawing
Non-through cuts such as grooves, dados, rabbets and tenons
Multi-purpose jigs such as taper jigs, sleds, tenoning jigs, panel cutters and the like. Try tapering table legs with a track saw. Actually don’t.
Job specific jigs and fixtures are possible but less useful.
Coving. If you haven’t seen this done go check out a video of someone cutting a cove with a table saw. It’s a hoot.
Not to mention that table saws are just more practical to set up for repeated operations/batch work
Yeah I would recommend a regular, good quality, Skil pattern circular saw over a track saw (which I believe is what you mean by “plunge saw”) as a first tool along with a decent straight edge clamp.
Track saws increasingly come with things like riving knives, anti-kickback features etc. but a beginner is unlikely to start with large slabs of lumber but rather plywood, which is less likely to pinch in the kerf and cause kickbacks. And in the event that “woodworking is not for me” a circ saw is perfectly viable for carpentry tasks as well.
I do suggest avoiding anything that purports to turn a regular circ saw into a track saw. Just learn how to run the foot against a straight edge.
I’m surprised by this answer! I’ve used standard circular saws for 30 odd years, but in the last few years I’ve used a couple of track saws, particularly a Makita system. I found them to be amazing. Fantastic accuracy, quicker setup, far superior dust extraction- made my old skilsaw look (and sound) like shit.
Also, why wouldn’t you want a riving knife? It causes no hindrance and helps avoid accidents. Genuinely curious.
Nothing against track saws at all, they’re excellent tools. My point is, if I had no tools, and I was going to buy one powered wood saw, it would be an ordinary circular saw.
For instance, what’s it like cross-cutting a 2x4 with a track saw?
This might not be everyones opinion but my recommendation would be to get a plunge saw as your first tool. For me it was a big revelation that everything I built in shop class looked so terrible because we werent allowed to use power tools. Cutting a straight line with a hand saw is a skill that needs a lot of practice, same for joinery with chisels etc. But a plunge saw with track will give you very straight cuts for not so much money. And IMO it can do everything a table saw can do, just not as quickly (repeated cuts etc.) But on the other hand I think it makes more sense to get a decent plunge saw that you can keep for years and still use for breaking down sheets even when you decide you prefer a table saw rather than buying a cheaper job site table saw that you outgrow after a couple of years.
This, and a miter saw.
I use my plunge saw for so many things, BUT it does have limitations. I struggle making long narrow rip cuts, and repeatable cuts can be difficult without an MFT style workbench.
It can be a lot safer, cleaner, and easier than a table saw, ESPECIALLY for large panels, but it can’t entirely replace a table saw.
I do agree with this comment, and the 10 minute workshop YouTube channel has a lot of great tips on using a plunge saw (and recommendations on less expensive versions), but just be aware that it’s not a 1-1 replacement.
I agree, of course every tool has some limitations. I think a set of parallell guides can also make the plunge saw much more versatile without breaking the bank. And the set i have also works well for narrow rip cuts, exept when the piece is really small to begin with. And as you say an MFT is great for repeated cuts. As another comment mentiones together with a mitre saw and some jigs i think you could replace a table saw functionally, but its probably not the most efficient way of doing some things.
With a track saw and a miter saw, I think you can say “I can crosscut, miter and rip.” But I don’t think you come close to matching the capability of a table saw.
I think a track saw really comes into its own when handling large panels or slabs. If you hand me one of those 2 inch thick slabs you’re making one of those trendy river tables out of and tell me to cut the live edge off of it and square it up, I’m not going to even try that with my table saw. Same with cutting some arbitrary diagonal line across a sheet of plywood.
Your average sliding compound miter saw is quite convenient but I don’t think as good as a table saw for crosscuts, miters, bevels or compound miters. Now mind you as a carpenter I’d happily show up to build a house with my miter saw and a normal circ saw and leave the table saw at home, but for woodworking I want extra accuracy and precision that I can get from a table saw and a good miter gauge or sled.
Things I think you would struggle to get done with only a miter saw and a track saw (or: why you’re probably going to get a table saw)
Ripping boards narrower than about 8 inches
Resawing
Non-through cuts such as grooves, dados, rabbets and tenons
Multi-purpose jigs such as taper jigs, sleds, tenoning jigs, panel cutters and the like. Try tapering table legs with a track saw. Actually don’t.
Job specific jigs and fixtures are possible but less useful.
Coving. If you haven’t seen this done go check out a video of someone cutting a cove with a table saw. It’s a hoot.
Not to mention that table saws are just more practical to set up for repeated operations/batch work
Yeah I would recommend a regular, good quality, Skil pattern circular saw over a track saw (which I believe is what you mean by “plunge saw”) as a first tool along with a decent straight edge clamp.
Track saws increasingly come with things like riving knives, anti-kickback features etc. but a beginner is unlikely to start with large slabs of lumber but rather plywood, which is less likely to pinch in the kerf and cause kickbacks. And in the event that “woodworking is not for me” a circ saw is perfectly viable for carpentry tasks as well.
I do suggest avoiding anything that purports to turn a regular circ saw into a track saw. Just learn how to run the foot against a straight edge.
I’m surprised by this answer! I’ve used standard circular saws for 30 odd years, but in the last few years I’ve used a couple of track saws, particularly a Makita system. I found them to be amazing. Fantastic accuracy, quicker setup, far superior dust extraction- made my old skilsaw look (and sound) like shit. Also, why wouldn’t you want a riving knife? It causes no hindrance and helps avoid accidents. Genuinely curious.
Nothing against track saws at all, they’re excellent tools. My point is, if I had no tools, and I was going to buy one powered wood saw, it would be an ordinary circular saw.
For instance, what’s it like cross-cutting a 2x4 with a track saw?
Same as doing it with a regular circular, you just don’t use the track.