For 90% of driving, EVs are great in the winter. Even if it only had 100mi range, and it’s so cold that it loses 40% of that, it’s still better. You can get to work, do errands, and make it home to charge just fine.
Its going to warm up the cabin faster than an ICE. Not only that, but if you know when you’re going to leave, you can set them to warm up ahead of time while still attached to the charger. You’ll pop right in to a toasty warm cabin. Once you have that, you don’t want to go back.
If the positions were swapped and ICE was a new thing, people would be writing op-eds about how cold they are for most of the drive to work.
It’s not really the same. My last car with remote start would only run the car for ten minutes before shutting down, which was hardly enough to warm the engine up on cold days. Meanwhile my EV fully heats the cabin in about 5 minutes and will melt a few inches of snow off the car in ten.
Also, when I run errands I leave the heat/AC on basically the entire time. Can’t really do that with an ICE even in places where it’s not illegal to idle for extended periods of time.
Those laws stopped like four people. People warm up their ICE cars in the cold. And what kind of remote start shuts off after 10 minutes? I’ve had a few cars with remote start and never even heard of this. Even if that was the case, set a 10m timer on your phone and restart it.
There are vehicles that have those features. Back before I retired as a medic, the new ambulance we got had that feature from Ford, (Ford makes 90% of all certified ambulance chassis in the US). It was quite disconcerting to hear the engine shutdown and restart by itself.
I was less than impressed by it because of all the electrical devices and lights we constantly run. If it fails to restart and the batteries are dead, someone else might be also.
I went from a ln ICE car where remote start would have been a subscription item. It only started the engine, although a warm engine is the most important part of heating the car. You had to remember to set everything
My current EV has that included among many features in the app. I can schedule when the car is warm or have dedicated buttons for on and defrost. Clicking on, I have complete control over every part of the heating system, including which seats to heat.
For me it’s a much better experience, although admittedly because the car is more computerized and the manufacturer is not trying to nickel and dime me with subscriptions, and could happen in an ICE car
Exhaust fumes. Remote heating an ICE requires starting the engine, which is a dangerous thing to do unsupervised particularly when many cars are stored in garages attached to homes.
While that’s true (you’d have to open the garage door with the rear facing out minimum) that’s not what we’re talking about in this corner of the thread. The person I’m replying to is bringing up subscription models for some reason? I’m asking what do subscription models have to do with whether a car is ice or ev?
TBF you can turn on an ICE car and let it warm up a bit before you drive it. Some ICE cars also allow you to remotely pre-start or there are after market options so you can use an app to do exactly that. Hell, Russian far east they simply leave the car on for the cold months.
It’s just that it’s incredibly wasteful/polluting.
Only goes so far. The interface between the garage door and the frame of the house is difficult to seal perfectly. Always going to be drafty. Also, you can’t put particularly thick insulation on the garage door.
I live in a cold climate. I have a 2 stall garage and the north facing insulated doors seal very well to hold in the heat. In fact the whole garage is insulated and I even heat it. Holding the building a 45F it takes 2 years between refills with a 200 gallon LP tank. And this is with temperatures than hit -40F over night with highs still well below 0F for several days or weeks at a time. And even unheated, that garage will never drop below freezing over an entire winter.
If you a drafty doors, you are doing something wrong. Fix them.
Even if the garage is attached, there will be an exterior door between the garage and the house proper that will be as heat loss resistant as your front door. So I don’t know how you get anymore heat loss than you would from any exterior door in the house. In fact, that door will have LESS heat loss than your front door because it’s shielded from the elements that your front door isn’t.
Honestly I was half joking, but seriously don’t most homes have extra insulation between the garage and the rest of the house? Are you guys heating your garages?
They do. A garage with a closed door acts like an air gap, meaning you get some extra insulation for free. It’s far from perfect, as the garage door itself can’t have particularly thick insulation, and the interface between the door and the frame is difficult to seal completely. Still, even an uninsulated garage with a closed door will typically be a bit warmer than the outside in the winter.
What’s special about the door or do you mean just opening it? If the latter, that still won’t prevent it from collecting at the ceiling and you’d better hope you remembered to open the door.
Welcome to my morning walk with the dogs every morning where its colder then 35F. Every fucking car in my neighborhood does this bullshit and when there’s little to no wind, all that exhaust doesn’t go anywhere and just sits at ground level where I get to breathe it in for an hour. It stick at the back of my throat for the rest of the day. Add to that snowblowers after even less than an inch of snow.
I can’t fucking wait for EVs to gain market share. Its fucking disgusting what my neighbors find acceptable.
The only enjoyment I find in this situation is people that back into their garages then warm up their car while still parked in their garage, spewing that exhaust into there instead of outside. I’ll never understand what brain logic leads them to that solution but it’s the same people doing it every morning.
Edit: I should add that the other great thing about people doing this is the rise of car thefts since some of these people also just turn their car on, leave the keys in the car, leave it unlocked and go back indoors because it’s cold
IIRC you can fit an ICE vehicle with an electric engine block heater which will use mains electricity to heat the water and circulate it through the engine. So you run an extension cord out to your car, leave it plugged in and turn it on half an hour before you leave.
It’s not good for the car, either. Cars aren’t meant to idle; cars are made to have all fluids moving & the car rolling down the road.
I treat my car to a gentle warm-up when it’s cold outside; I start the car & start driving, but only 20-30 mph for the first 5-8 minutes. All the components of the car are gently being used, are slowly warming up, together. I think my car runs better for it.
Even phevs have this availability. Loving our Mazda cx90 for this feature. Can program their app to have it start warming 15-20 mins before my wife leaves for work and it’s ready to go and comfortable.
Cars have had remote start for a long time. But you can’t just leave a gas car running in a closed garage. That’s a good way to accidentally take the forever nap.
Not talking about remote start but about heating the car before starting it. It’s powered by electricity not gasoline. The garage has an outlet that you plug the car into.
Idk how engine heaters in Scandinavia work, but in North America they only heat the oil pan. So your oil won’t be too thick when you start your engine, but it wont heat your cabin.
For that we would need to buy a shore power coolant pump/heater. Which exists but the extra 1000 dollar price doesn’t lend itself to popularity.
You can get in engine block heaters that heat the water jacket of the engine in the US and Canada. Or you can get an in-line coolant heater also. I haven’t seen a oil pan heater in 40 years. They aren’t really a need anymore with 0-30W engine oils anymore.
A block heater will set you back about $120US installed at your local repair station. The in-line coolant heater is some cheaper being only about $75US installed. They both work off of common 115/120V/15A power. No fixed install required for either. At worst you will need to buy an extension cord of the proper gauge. Maybe another $50US. This is well below the costs you cite.
Besides diesels, they’re almost unheard of in the US. At least in the continental states; they might have them in the nastier parts of Alaska. Even there, a lot of the places where people actually live don’t get that cold. Anchorage has an average low of -10C in January, which is cold, but not crazy cold.
They are. It’s just most urban people don’t bother with them anymore because the electronic ignitions and fuel injectors make ICE engines very reliable starters even in quite cold weather. My, now eight year old vehicles, still start reliably at -40F even parked outside because I know I will be faced with those temperatures every year and I keep them well repaired to handle that.
Mostly you will see block heaters on diesels and older unreliable cars. And yes, they do work very well and are a cheap insurance policy for getting your car started.
Wouldn’t be that hard to do on ICE vehicles. Just need a heating element added somewhere that heats the antifreeze to 100ish F. Then a remote to activate the blower motor.
The whole thing about them losing range in the cold isn’t even really true unless you can’t precondition the battery. Which might be the case for people who don’t charge at home, but at the very least it’s a statement which requires qualification.
I wholeheartedly disagree with this. I have a Model 3 and use it as my daily driver but have also done at least 4 cross country trips, two of which were in summer, one in spring, and one in winter.
For daily driving I can absolutely tell a difference in my range in the winter time and I do have a charger at home and car set to precondition. Preconditioning does make a big difference but it doesn’t completely offset the cold. Furthermore when it’s time to drive home from work I either have to drive on a cold battery or try to precondition without a charger.
During the recent cold snap (single digit Fahrenheit temps) I did an experiment with this where I started trying to precondition two hours before I left work. I just wanted to see how much battery it would take to precondition and ultimately test if that would be better than driving home cold. After two hours the battery was still not preconditioned sufficiently and I had used 20% of my battery. I would definitely have been better to just drive on a cold battery.
On long distance drives I have also found that the range suffers noticeably during winter weather. On my cross country winter trip it seemed like had about 15-20% less range between charges. And since I was driving all day and supercharging, the battery was fully conditioned the whole time. Didn’t prevent decreased range in the cold though.
Preconditioning only gets it ready for charging. It does almost nothing for driving except to allow the regen to work.
Lithium delivers fine below freezing, but it needs to be above freezing to accept a charge.
When you preconditioned at work for 2 hours all it did was waste battery.
XC trips when you put a supercharger as destination, it will automatically precondition to get ready to charge. And preconditioning takes away from your range.
This is just plain wrong.
We have two EV’s in Norway (cold as fuck at times) and there is no way to manage the same range in winter as in summer.
Sure you can mitigate some of it by preheating both the cabin and the battery, but the heater working harder to maintain the temperature when it’s cold outside and the added friction of driving on snow is always going to be there
That’s because of the design of the heater the heater actually blew air across the exhaust manifolds and then into the cabin it was frequent for that plumbing to end up with holes in it letting all that heat Escape but also letting exhaust gases into your cabin So Not only would it freeze you out but it tried to kill you and asphyxiate you with carbon monoxide
Yeah, which made them just fabulous for our favorite use for them at the time: driving around drinking. Pack that bug full of teen agers smoking and drinking and freezing and basically getting CO poisoning until somebody got sick and we all had to do an emergency exit drill.
Only if you didn’t get the extra gasoline heater that mounted under trunk hood, I owned a 1965 Beetle in my youth. Those would cook you well done in minutes in the coldest temperatures. Turns out it’s hard to get good heat from an air cooled engine.
That ain’t getting me to town for groceries at that rate.
I wanted to buy an EV, but after doing a serious evaluation of where I live and what I need to drive for distances and road conditions plus the temperatures I need it to work in, a pure EV is a no go for me. I could get by with a hybrid most of the time. But winter time road conditions can make it pretty iffy for winter and spring and uncomfortable number of times to make even that choice dicey.
Then you are truly a margin case and need to stop shoveling your irrelevant opinion into a greater conversation.
These people that come along and go “EV’s are no good cos I live 50 + miles from the nearest shop and I’m not willing to pause and let my vehicle charge for 20 mins when I am there.” They are taking the piss out of everyone by butting into conversation and making their demands.
There is a noticeable non-zero number of people who fall into that category. And you cannot simply handwave them away or the fact that for many the cost of purchase an EV simply isn’t possible yet or the infrastructure isn’t there to support such a purchase.
And YOU willfully choose to ignore those people and situations. You are no better than the clowns that state “EVs are stupid”.
For 90% of driving, EVs are great in the winter. Even if it only had 100mi range, and it’s so cold that it loses 40% of that, it’s still better. You can get to work, do errands, and make it home to charge just fine.
Its going to warm up the cabin faster than an ICE. Not only that, but if you know when you’re going to leave, you can set them to warm up ahead of time while still attached to the charger. You’ll pop right in to a toasty warm cabin. Once you have that, you don’t want to go back.
If the positions were swapped and ICE was a new thing, people would be writing op-eds about how cold they are for most of the drive to work.
You know that remote start is a thing for ICE vehicles too right?
You can, but not in a closed garage. Granted, if you had that the cabin wouldn’t be quite as cold.
I mean… just open the garage door when you start the vehicle. It’s not like the garage will instantly ice over.
Sure, but if you had the option to do it without opening the garage door wouldn’t you like that more?
Definitely. I was just pointing that out.
It’s not really the same. My last car with remote start would only run the car for ten minutes before shutting down, which was hardly enough to warm the engine up on cold days. Meanwhile my EV fully heats the cabin in about 5 minutes and will melt a few inches of snow off the car in ten.
Also, when I run errands I leave the heat/AC on basically the entire time. Can’t really do that with an ICE even in places where it’s not illegal to idle for extended periods of time.
Those laws stopped like four people. People warm up their ICE cars in the cold. And what kind of remote start shuts off after 10 minutes? I’ve had a few cars with remote start and never even heard of this. Even if that was the case, set a 10m timer on your phone and restart it.
There are vehicles that have those features. Back before I retired as a medic, the new ambulance we got had that feature from Ford, (Ford makes 90% of all certified ambulance chassis in the US). It was quite disconcerting to hear the engine shutdown and restart by itself.
I was less than impressed by it because of all the electrical devices and lights we constantly run. If it fails to restart and the batteries are dead, someone else might be also.
Yeah but I’ve only seen start ….
I went from a ln ICE car where remote start would have been a subscription item. It only started the engine, although a warm engine is the most important part of heating the car. You had to remember to set everything
My current EV has that included among many features in the app. I can schedule when the car is warm or have dedicated buttons for on and defrost. Clicking on, I have complete control over every part of the heating system, including which seats to heat.
For me it’s a much better experience, although admittedly because the car is more computerized and the manufacturer is not trying to nickel and dime me with subscriptions, and could happen in an ICE car
I’m not sure what that has to do with one car being ice and the other electric though
Exhaust fumes. Remote heating an ICE requires starting the engine, which is a dangerous thing to do unsupervised particularly when many cars are stored in garages attached to homes.
While that’s true (you’d have to open the garage door with the rear facing out minimum) that’s not what we’re talking about in this corner of the thread. The person I’m replying to is bringing up subscription models for some reason? I’m asking what do subscription models have to do with whether a car is ice or ev?
Probably because ICE cars can’t heat when scheduled because they can kill you while EV can heat on schedule.
They brought up how the feature is a subscription to their displeasure but ICE app integration would likely also be a subscription.
TBF you can turn on an ICE car and let it warm up a bit before you drive it. Some ICE cars also allow you to remotely pre-start or there are after market options so you can use an app to do exactly that. Hell, Russian far east they simply leave the car on for the cold months.
It’s just that it’s incredibly wasteful/polluting.
But you cannot do that in the garage (unless you like huffing exhaust fumes).
And if you spend a couple hundred bucks on insulation, you don’t need to preheat anything in your garage either.
Only goes so far. The interface between the garage door and the frame of the house is difficult to seal perfectly. Always going to be drafty. Also, you can’t put particularly thick insulation on the garage door.
I live in a cold climate. I have a 2 stall garage and the north facing insulated doors seal very well to hold in the heat. In fact the whole garage is insulated and I even heat it. Holding the building a 45F it takes 2 years between refills with a 200 gallon LP tank. And this is with temperatures than hit -40F over night with highs still well below 0F for several days or weeks at a time. And even unheated, that garage will never drop below freezing over an entire winter.
If you a drafty doors, you are doing something wrong. Fix them.
You can’t open a garage door remotely? I can.
Exhaust fans are not new or unapproachable tech.
They are also not a common fixture of garages.
But they are a life and death safety device in the scenario you describe. Hvac equipment.
The majority of garages I’ve seen have a garage door so the fumes don’t just build up in the garage.
Which means that your home then has increased heat loss because the garage door is open.
Even if the garage is attached, there will be an exterior door between the garage and the house proper that will be as heat loss resistant as your front door. So I don’t know how you get anymore heat loss than you would from any exterior door in the house. In fact, that door will have LESS heat loss than your front door because it’s shielded from the elements that your front door isn’t.
Would you have a large impact on your home from having your garage open for 15 minutes or so every day?
Eh, I don’t even have a garage, and my place stays warm just fine. It’s just a few minutes
What the hell are you talking about? Listen to yourself
Honestly I was half joking, but seriously don’t most homes have extra insulation between the garage and the rest of the house? Are you guys heating your garages?
They do. A garage with a closed door acts like an air gap, meaning you get some extra insulation for free. It’s far from perfect, as the garage door itself can’t have particularly thick insulation, and the interface between the door and the frame is difficult to seal completely. Still, even an uninsulated garage with a closed door will typically be a bit warmer than the outside in the winter.
What’s special about the door or do you mean just opening it? If the latter, that still won’t prevent it from collecting at the ceiling and you’d better hope you remembered to open the door.
Which actually makes it illegal in some countries, too
Is illegal in my city. You’d never know it by walking around in the morning.
Welcome to my morning walk with the dogs every morning where its colder then 35F. Every fucking car in my neighborhood does this bullshit and when there’s little to no wind, all that exhaust doesn’t go anywhere and just sits at ground level where I get to breathe it in for an hour. It stick at the back of my throat for the rest of the day. Add to that snowblowers after even less than an inch of snow.
I can’t fucking wait for EVs to gain market share. Its fucking disgusting what my neighbors find acceptable.
The only enjoyment I find in this situation is people that back into their garages then warm up their car while still parked in their garage, spewing that exhaust into there instead of outside. I’ll never understand what brain logic leads them to that solution but it’s the same people doing it every morning.
Edit: I should add that the other great thing about people doing this is the rise of car thefts since some of these people also just turn their car on, leave the keys in the car, leave it unlocked and go back indoors because it’s cold
Yup, this is why the practice of idling a car to heat it up is rightfully illegal in many places.
IIRC you can fit an ICE vehicle with an electric engine block heater which will use mains electricity to heat the water and circulate it through the engine. So you run an extension cord out to your car, leave it plugged in and turn it on half an hour before you leave.
Yep it’s what people in northern Sweden have been doing for probably at least 40 years now.
It’s not good for the car, either. Cars aren’t meant to idle; cars are made to have all fluids moving & the car rolling down the road.
I treat my car to a gentle warm-up when it’s cold outside; I start the car & start driving, but only 20-30 mph for the first 5-8 minutes. All the components of the car are gently being used, are slowly warming up, together. I think my car runs better for it.
My grandpa would do that back in the sixties. Luckily some things do change.
The peak version of this that’s kind of sold me is you can pre-condition in the garage. Like, why wouldn’t anyone want to do that.
Even phevs have this availability. Loving our Mazda cx90 for this feature. Can program their app to have it start warming 15-20 mins before my wife leaves for work and it’s ready to go and comfortable.
In Sweden every vehicle has had this as standard since the 1980s.
Cars have had remote start for a long time. But you can’t just leave a gas car running in a closed garage. That’s a good way to accidentally take the forever nap.
Not talking about remote start but about heating the car before starting it. It’s powered by electricity not gasoline. The garage has an outlet that you plug the car into.
Yeah I have actually been kind of baffled no one else mentioned these, are conventional engine heaters not a thing outside scandinavia?
Are engine block heaters being confused for pre-heating the cabin? Because we have block heaters too.
There’s a separate cabin heater which is connected to the same circuit as the block heater.
Idk how engine heaters in Scandinavia work, but in North America they only heat the oil pan. So your oil won’t be too thick when you start your engine, but it wont heat your cabin.
For that we would need to buy a shore power coolant pump/heater. Which exists but the extra 1000 dollar price doesn’t lend itself to popularity.
You can get in engine block heaters that heat the water jacket of the engine in the US and Canada. Or you can get an in-line coolant heater also. I haven’t seen a oil pan heater in 40 years. They aren’t really a need anymore with 0-30W engine oils anymore.
A block heater will set you back about $120US installed at your local repair station. The in-line coolant heater is some cheaper being only about $75US installed. They both work off of common 115/120V/15A power. No fixed install required for either. At worst you will need to buy an extension cord of the proper gauge. Maybe another $50US. This is well below the costs you cite.
Besides diesels, they’re almost unheard of in the US. At least in the continental states; they might have them in the nastier parts of Alaska. Even there, a lot of the places where people actually live don’t get that cold. Anchorage has an average low of -10C in January, which is cold, but not crazy cold.
Ah OK, I would have expected it to be quite a lot colder than that.
They are. It’s just most urban people don’t bother with them anymore because the electronic ignitions and fuel injectors make ICE engines very reliable starters even in quite cold weather. My, now eight year old vehicles, still start reliably at -40F even parked outside because I know I will be faced with those temperatures every year and I keep them well repaired to handle that.
Mostly you will see block heaters on diesels and older unreliable cars. And yes, they do work very well and are a cheap insurance policy for getting your car started.
Wouldn’t be that hard to do on ICE vehicles. Just need a heating element added somewhere that heats the antifreeze to 100ish F. Then a remote to activate the blower motor.
The whole thing about them losing range in the cold isn’t even really true unless you can’t precondition the battery. Which might be the case for people who don’t charge at home, but at the very least it’s a statement which requires qualification.
I wholeheartedly disagree with this. I have a Model 3 and use it as my daily driver but have also done at least 4 cross country trips, two of which were in summer, one in spring, and one in winter.
For daily driving I can absolutely tell a difference in my range in the winter time and I do have a charger at home and car set to precondition. Preconditioning does make a big difference but it doesn’t completely offset the cold. Furthermore when it’s time to drive home from work I either have to drive on a cold battery or try to precondition without a charger.
During the recent cold snap (single digit Fahrenheit temps) I did an experiment with this where I started trying to precondition two hours before I left work. I just wanted to see how much battery it would take to precondition and ultimately test if that would be better than driving home cold. After two hours the battery was still not preconditioned sufficiently and I had used 20% of my battery. I would definitely have been better to just drive on a cold battery.
On long distance drives I have also found that the range suffers noticeably during winter weather. On my cross country winter trip it seemed like had about 15-20% less range between charges. And since I was driving all day and supercharging, the battery was fully conditioned the whole time. Didn’t prevent decreased range in the cold though.
I mean I do the same 100 mile trip every 2-3 weeks and I get almost exactly the same WH/mi year round as long as I’m not cranking the heat.
It’s very hard to compare range on separate trips, since elevation change is by far the biggest factor.
Preconditioning only gets it ready for charging. It does almost nothing for driving except to allow the regen to work.
Lithium delivers fine below freezing, but it needs to be above freezing to accept a charge.
When you preconditioned at work for 2 hours all it did was waste battery.
XC trips when you put a supercharger as destination, it will automatically precondition to get ready to charge. And preconditioning takes away from your range.
The issue is you have a Tesla
Which EV maker has a model whose range doesn’t diminish in cold weather?
This is just plain wrong.
We have two EV’s in Norway (cold as fuck at times) and there is no way to manage the same range in winter as in summer.
Sure you can mitigate some of it by preheating both the cabin and the battery, but the heater working harder to maintain the temperature when it’s cold outside and the added friction of driving on snow is always going to be there
The 60s era vws were notorious for never managing to produce any cabin heat.
That’s because of the design of the heater the heater actually blew air across the exhaust manifolds and then into the cabin it was frequent for that plumbing to end up with holes in it letting all that heat Escape but also letting exhaust gases into your cabin So Not only would it freeze you out but it tried to kill you and asphyxiate you with carbon monoxide
Yeah, which made them just fabulous for our favorite use for them at the time: driving around drinking. Pack that bug full of teen agers smoking and drinking and freezing and basically getting CO poisoning until somebody got sick and we all had to do an emergency exit drill.
Only if you didn’t get the extra gasoline heater that mounted under trunk hood, I owned a 1965 Beetle in my youth. Those would cook you well done in minutes in the coldest temperatures. Turns out it’s hard to get good heat from an air cooled engine.
That ain’t getting me to town for groceries at that rate.
I wanted to buy an EV, but after doing a serious evaluation of where I live and what I need to drive for distances and road conditions plus the temperatures I need it to work in, a pure EV is a no go for me. I could get by with a hybrid most of the time. But winter time road conditions can make it pretty iffy for winter and spring and uncomfortable number of times to make even that choice dicey.
Then you are truly a margin case and need to stop shoveling your irrelevant opinion into a greater conversation.
These people that come along and go “EV’s are no good cos I live 50 + miles from the nearest shop and I’m not willing to pause and let my vehicle charge for 20 mins when I am there.” They are taking the piss out of everyone by butting into conversation and making their demands.
There is a noticeable non-zero number of people who fall into that category. And you cannot simply handwave them away or the fact that for many the cost of purchase an EV simply isn’t possible yet or the infrastructure isn’t there to support such a purchase.
And YOU willfully choose to ignore those people and situations. You are no better than the clowns that state “EVs are stupid”.